Lowland whisky doesn’t get as much attention as Islay or Speyside, and Glenkinchie 12 is the one most people reach for when they want to try it. It’s near Edinburgh, in farmland, and the whisky is described as light and grassy.
That’s not a description that gets the heart racing. But light and grassy might be exactly what some people want.
The Edinburgh malt
Glenkinchie is in Pencaitland, East Lothian, about 15 miles from Edinburgh, and it was founded in 1837. It’s owned by Diageo and is the Lowland entry in the Classic Malts range. It’s sometimes called “the Edinburgh malt”. There’s a visitor centre with a small whisky museum, and a big old still in the grounds.
Lowland whisky was traditionally triple distilled, which gives a lighter spirit. Glenkinchie, though, is double distilled like most of Scotland, and the style is light because of the spirit, not because of the number of distillations. The 12 is bottled at 43% and matured mostly in refill American oak.
What light actually tastes like
Light whisky isn’t weak whisky. It can be delicate, dry and floral, with the grain and malt coming through rather than heavy wood or sherry. The risk is that it comes across as bland. Fans say it’s clean and refreshing. Critics say it lacks character. The truth depends on what you want.
I like smooth and approachable whisky, so on paper this is my kind of bottle. Whether light and smooth is enough is the test.
In the glass
I tried this neat. Lowland whisky has a reputation for being light, and I was interested to see whether light meant easy or boring. I think it’s both.
Nose: Cut grass, a few flowers and some malt. It smells clean and fresh, like a garden after rain. Very gentle.
Palate: Light and dry, with a bit of lemon and a touch of spice. It’s smooth, and nothing is harsh. But there’s not much sweetness or body, and it feels a bit thin. It’s easy to drink but not memorable.
Finish: Short to medium. Dry and slightly bitter, with a clean fade. A splash of water didn’t help, and ice made it even lighter.
Lowland options
There aren’t many easy-to-find Lowland malts, which is why Glenkinchie gets chosen so often. Auchentoshan 12 is the other well-known one, and it’s triple distilled, creamier and a bit more fruity. Bladnoch 11, from the far south, is described as floral and soft. There’s also Glenkinchie’s Distillers Edition, finished in Amontillado sherry casks, and a 20-year-old. If you want to understand the Lowland style, trying two or three side by side is the best method.
Value
A 70 cl bottle usually costs about £45 in the UK. That’s a bit much for what it delivers. A cheaper malt would be more satisfying.
It’s a 12-year-old at 43%, so it generally sits in the mid-range. Prices vary, and it’s often cheaper than the bigger-name Speyside and Highland equivalents.
Who it is for
It’s for people who want to try the Lowland style, or who prefer their whisky light and dry. It’s a good bottle for a summer evening or with a splash of soda. It’s not for those who like rich, sweet or smoky malts.
A warm-weather test
I tried this on a warm evening, with a few ice cubes. Light and dry suits that setting far better than a cold, dark evening. It was refreshing, and that’s about the best thing I can say about it.
The trouble with light
The problem with a light whisky is that it has to be perfect to be interesting. There’s nowhere to hide. Glenkinchie is clean and pleasant, but it never gave me a moment where I thought “ah, that’s nice”. It’s like a good conversation about the weather.
Against my usual
Compared with Jameson, it’s drier and less sweet, and it has less body. I like Jameson because it’s smooth and a bit sweet. Glenkinchie is smooth and a bit dry, which is a different thing, and it doesn’t do as much for me. I’d call it a safe, forgettable malt.
My final thought is that it’s a good whisky for learning what “light” means. If you want to understand the difference between a delicate malt and a rich one, pour a glass of this next to something sherried. After that, you’ll know exactly where your taste sits.
Verdict
Probably not. It’s pleasant, but I’d rather spend the money on something with more sweetness and body.
Cut grass, flowers and malt
Light and dry with lemon and a touch of spice
Short to medium, dry and slightly bitter
Light and dry. Clean, but a bit dull for the money.
Thomas Grønvold is the founder of Caskable and a whisky enthusiast who believes the best way to learn about whisky is simply to drink it, compare it, and stay curious. From supermarket favourites to bottles from distilleries around the world, he writes about what he actually tastes and experiences, without pretending you need to be an expert to enjoy a good dram.
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