Balblair 12 is a Highland malt from a distillery that has been making whisky since the days of Napoleon, and it tastes like a well-pressed shirt: clean, fresh and slightly starched. This Balblair 12 review is about a 46% malt that costs about £46, tastes of citrus, vanilla and apple, and is a tidy, honest, unpeated dram that is much better than its low profile suggests.
I like it. It is a whisky that does not try to be anything other than a good Highland malt, and it has the strength and the texture to carry it off. I find it a little plain at times, and I find that plainness a rather attractive thing in a loud shop.
Balblair sits at Edderton in Ross-shire, on the Dornoch Firth, and the distillery traces its history to 1790. It is owned by Inver House Distillers, part of ThaiBev, and the Balblair distillery is one of the quieter names in the Highlands. The 12 is bottled at 46% with a twelve-year age statement, matured mainly in ex-bourbon casks.
The strength is a real point in its favour. At 46% the whisky has more body and more flavour than the 40% bottles that fill the shelf at this price. UK retail listings I found put the 12 at about £46, and it is easy to find. The beginner’s guide to Highland whisky explains why the region makes so many different styles.
A squeeze of lemon on a vanilla sponge, a slice of green apple and a pinch of white pepper.
The nose is fresh and fruity, with citrus, vanilla and apple, then a little honey and a faint oak. It smells clean, bright and gentle, with a pleasant lift.
On the palate it is smooth and rounded, with vanilla, lemon and apple, then a little spice, a hint of malt and a soft oak. The 46% gives it good body, and the texture is silky and slightly oily. It is a fruity, tidy whisky with no rough edges.
The finish is medium, clean and a little spicy, with oak and citrus. It is warm, dry and quietly satisfying.
A few drops of water bring out the apple and soften the oak, and I think it is a little better for it. It also gets sweeter as it sits, and the honey comes forward. At 46% it takes water well, and a patient pour pays off.
Neat, with a few drops of water, or on a single cube. It is a very good all-round malt and a lovely aperitif. It makes a pleasant Old Fashioned and a bright Whiskey Sour, where the citrus is a help.
It goes well with a light cheese, a fruit tart and a quiet evening. It is a good gift for somebody who likes clean, fruity whisky and does not want a lot of fuss.
At about £46 it scores 77. Glengoyne 12 scores 79 at about £38, which is two points better for £8 less. Glenmorangie 10 scores 76 at about £37. Tomatin 12 scores 76 at about £45, and Arran 10 scores 79 at about £38.
So the Balblair 12 is a good whisky at a fair price in a very competitive group. The Glengoyne and the Arran are better and cheaper, and the Glenmorangie is only a point behind for £9 less. I would buy the Balblair for the strength and the freshness, and I would be pleased with it.
Balblair used to be known for releasing its whisky by vintage, with a year on the label and not an age. The core range now carries age statements, which makes the bottles easier to compare, and the old habit lingers in the way the distillery talks about its whisky. It is a place that likes to emphasise time.
That makes sense for a spirit that is clean, fruity and slow to mature. The 12 is a very good illustration of the house style, with a lot of citrus and vanilla and not much drama. It is a whisky for people who like their malt tidy, and I count myself among them on the right evening.
Four more bottles, from the better buys to the other fresh Highland drams.
A slow-distilled, nutty Highland malt that scores two points higher for £8 less.
A bright, citrusy island malt that scores two points higher for £8 less.
A light, floral Highland malt for £9 less.
A soft, fruity Highland malt at about the same price.
Balblair 12 is fresh, citrusy, vanilla-sweet and nicely strong, a tidy Highland malt that does its job. It is a fair buy at a fair price, and the Glengoyne and the Arran are the better value.
Caskable score: 77 out of 100.
Citrus, vanilla, apple and a little honey
Smooth and fruity, with vanilla, lemon and gentle spice
Medium, clean and a little spicy, with oak and citrus
A fresh, fruity, well-made Highland malt that sits at a fair price and a good strength.
Thomas Grønvold is the founder of Caskable and a whisky enthusiast who believes the best way to learn about whisky is simply to drink it, compare it, and stay curious. From supermarket favourites to bottles from distilleries around the world, he writes about what he actually tastes and experiences, without pretending you need to be an expert to enjoy a good dram.
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