Bunnahabhain 12 Review

Say “Islay” to most people and they think of smoke. Peat, seaweed, something that smells like a bonfire on the beach. So it’s a bit surprising when one of the island’s whiskies turns out not to taste like that at all.

Bunnahabhain is that whisky. Or at least, most of what the distillery makes is.

The odd one out

Bunnahabhain is on the north-east coast of Islay, a long way from the famous south-coast names, and it was founded in 1881. The name is pronounced something like “boo-na-ha-venn”, and nobody will think less of you if you just point at it. Unlike its neighbours, its core range is mostly unpeated.

The 12 Year Old is bottled at 46.3% and it isn’t chill-filtered. Chill filtering removes some oils so the whisky stays clear when it’s cold, and skipping it tends to be a sign that the producer wants the whisky to taste as it is. It’s matured in a mix of ex-bourbon and sherry casks. The distillery does make peated whisky too, sold under the Moine name, but that’s a separate range.

Why this one interests me

I’m not a heavy-smoke person. Lightly smoky whisky is fine, but dominant peat generally isn’t my thing. That makes an Islay bottle without the smoke interesting, because it’s a way into the island’s whisky without the part I’m least keen on.

It’s also the risk. If you buy an Islay malt expecting a bonfire and it tastes like a soft, nutty malt, you might feel short-changed. Know what you’re buying.

In the glass

I tried this neat one evening. I had been told it’s an Islay whisky without the usual smoke, and I expected to be either relieved or a bit disappointed. I was relieved.

Nose: Roasted nuts, dried fruit and a touch of salty air. There’s almost no peat. It smells soft and a bit sweet, which is the opposite of what I expected from the island.

Palate: Sweet malt up front, then nuts and a little salt. It has more body than the 40% bottles because it’s 46.3%, but it’s still smooth. I couldn’t find any heavy smoke, only the faintest hint in the background. Easy to sip and more interesting than it looks.

Finish: Medium length, nutty, with a slightly salty edge that makes you want another sip. I tried a drop of water and it softened things a little, but it didn’t need it.

Where it sits among the Islay bottles

The standard way to understand Islay is to line up a few. Bunnahabhain 12 is the soft end. Bowmore 12 sits in the middle with gentle peat. Caol Ila 12 is smoky but clean. Then come Lagavulin 16, Laphroaig 10 and Ardbeg 10 at the heavy end. If you only ever drink Bunnahabhain, you’ve seen one side of the island, and a pleasant one.

Value

A 70 cl bottle usually costs about £43 in the UK. For 46.3% and no chill-filtering, I think that’s good value, and it’s usually cheaper than the smokier Islay names.

At 46.3% and with no chill-filtering, the 12 is generally seen as good value among Islay bottles. Several of the better-known names on the island cost more for the same age, though prices differ by country.

Who it is for

It’s a good bottle for people who like Speyside-style malts and want to see what Islay has to offer beyond smoke. It’s also a decent gift for someone who says they don’t like peated whisky but is willing to try the island.

It’s not for someone who wants the full Islay experience. For that, you’d go to Lagavulin, Laphroaig or Ardbeg.

How it went over with other people

I poured a small glass for a friend who says he hates smoky whisky. He sniffed it, waited for the bonfire, and then looked slightly confused. “That’s Islay?” he said. He finished the glass and asked what it was called, which tells you most of what you need to know.

It’s the only Islay bottle so far that I’d happily put on the shelf next to the Jameson without feeling I’m picking a fight. It’s nutty and soft with a little salt, and that’s plenty for me.

Verdict

Yes. It’s the Islay bottle I’d actually keep around. It’s smooth, has some character and doesn’t hit me with smoke. I’d give it to someone who says they don’t like peated whisky.