Suntory Toki Review
Suntory Toki is the Japanese whisky you can usually find without a long search. It’s affordable, it’s on the shelf at a lot of shops, and it’s designed to be mixed in a highball. That’s not the sort of thing that makes whisky nerds excited, but it might be exactly what an ordinary drinker is after.
I like bottles that know what they’re for. Toki is clear about it.
A blend with a purpose
Toki, which means “time” in Japanese, was introduced by Suntory in 2016. It’s a blended whisky, which means malt and grain whiskies from different distilleries are mixed together. The malt comes from the Hakushu distillery in the mountains, the grain whisky comes from Chita, and there’s also malt from Yamazaki. It’s bottled at 43%, with no age statement.
The brand is aimed at the highball, a drink of whisky and soda. In Japan the highball is hugely popular, served long and cold, and Toki is built to work well that way. The company is Beam Suntory.
Where it fits for me
I enjoy a smooth, light whisky that doesn’t fight back, and I’m not a fan of heavy smoke. Toki is described as light, fresh and slightly sweet, with no peat. On paper, that’s my sort of bottle.
Trying it
I tried this neat, then as a highball. I expected a light, easy whisky, and that’s what it is.
Nose: Green apple and honey, with a faint herbal note. It smells fresh, light and slightly sweet. No smoke at all.
Palate: Light and sweet, with vanilla and a hint of ginger. It’s smooth and very easy to drink, although thin neat. As a highball, with soda and ice, it comes alive. It’s refreshing and clean.
Finish: Short to medium and clean. It fades quickly, which is fine in a highball. A bit of ice worked well.
The highball
The traditional way is one part whisky to about three parts chilled soda water, in a tall glass filled with ice, stirred gently once. Use a good soda with plenty of fizz, and a strip of lemon peel if you want. It’s an easy way to find out whether a whisky works as a long drink.
Alternatives
Nikka Coffey Grain is sweeter and creamier. Hibiki Harmony is a step up in price and polish. Jameson is a similar level of smoothness from Ireland. Monkey Shoulder is a mixing whisky from Scotland. Toki sits in that group of approachable blends.
Value
A 70 cl bottle usually costs about £30 in the UK. That’s very fair for an easy Japanese whisky.
It’s usually priced as an affordable entry to Japanese whisky. Prices differ by country, though. Check what you’d pay against Nikka From The Barrel and Monkey Shoulder.
Who it is for
It’s for people who want an easy Japanese whisky, especially for highballs. If you want depth and complexity, you’d look at Yamazaki or Hakushu.
The highball
I made a highball the traditional way: lots of ice, about three parts cold soda to one part whisky, a gentle stir and a twist of lemon. It’s a lovely drink. Light, fresh and not too sweet. I made a second one without thinking about it, which says a lot.
Against the usual suspects
Compared with Jameson and soda, Toki is a bit lighter and a bit more floral. It isn’t better, it’s different. For a summer evening it’s the one I’d pick.
Neat, it’s a pleasant but forgettable whisky. As an easy highball bottle at £30, it’s a bargain.
Last word
Suntory Toki is the Japanese whisky I’d recommend to a friend who says they want to try something from Japan but doesn’t want to spend a lot. It’s light, it’s easy and it makes a fantastic highball. It won’t change your life, and it will make your evening nicer.
At £30, I’d say it’s one of the best-value bottles on this list. I’d buy it again, and I’d keep it in the fridge door with a bottle of good soda water. That’s about as much planning as it needs.
One last tip for the highball. Chill the glass and the soda before you start, and pour the soda down the side of the glass so you don’t lose the fizz. It sounds fussy, and it makes a real difference. Cold, fizzy and light is what this whisky is made for.
Verdict
Yes. I’d buy it for highballs, and for anyone who wants an easy, smooth dram.
Green apple, honey and a faint herbal note
Light and sweet, vanilla, a hint of ginger
Short to medium, clean
Light, smooth and refreshing. A great highball whisky, and pleasant neat.
Thomas Grønvold is the founder of Caskable and a whisky enthusiast who believes the best way to learn about whisky is simply to drink it, compare it, and stay curious. From supermarket favourites to bottles from distilleries around the world, he writes about what he actually tastes and experiences, without pretending you need to be an expert to enjoy a good dram.
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